Green laning and off road: how to clean the mud off properly

Green lanes and byways end in one place: a car caked in mud. Left on, it holds water against the metal, hides damage and grinds into the paint when you finally wash it. This guide covers what to do before you leave the lane, a wash that lets the chemicals do the hard work, and the parts to look after underneath.

Before you even get home

Byways open to all traffic follow the same laws as any road. Councils say vehicles must be road legal, taxed, insured and MOT'd where needed, and some routes close for the season. Councils also warn that depositing mud on the road is an offence and a danger to other road users. So knock the worst off the tyres and wheels before you rejoin tarmac, and check your lights and plates are clean enough to see.

Let the pre wash do the heavy lifting

Thick mud is full of grit and small stones. Wiping it with a mitt is like sanding the paint. The aim is to remove as much as possible before anything touches the car.

1. Low pressure soak. Rinse the whole car to soften dried mud. Keep the tip 30 cm or more from the paint and use a wide fan.
2. Arches and lower panels. Rinse out the packed mud behind the arch liners and along the sills.
3. Strong pre rinse. For heavy soiling, our Extreme pre rinse mixes at 1:5. Spray from the bottom up and let it dwell without drying.
4. Snow foam. The Extreme snow foam is made for heavy soiling. Let it dwell, then rinse from the top down.
5. Repeat if needed. A second foam is cheaper than a scratched door.

Arches, wheels and underneath

• Arches. A stiff, long handled arch brush scrubs grime out of liners. Keep it for arches only and never use it on paint.
• Wheels. Mud packs into barrels and around calipers, which can upset the balance. Clean the barrels as well as the faces. See how to clean alloy wheels.
• Underside. Rinse the sills, subframes and suspension. Mud holds water, and in winter it holds salt too. Our road salt facts and figures explain why that matters.
• Keep the jet away from wheel bearings, seals, electrical connectors and the air intake.

The contact wash

Only once the panels look clean do you touch them. Use two buckets with grit guards and rinse the mitt after every panel, because there will still be grit you cannot see. Our two bucket guide has the method. Use separate cloths for wheels and arches.

After the wash

• Dry the car and open the doors, bonnet and boot to check the shuts for mud.
• Check the radiator and grille for packed mud, which can affect cooling.
• Look over the underside for damage now that you can see it.
• Add a coat of spray sealant to the paint. Protected paint releases mud more easily next time.

Look after the lanes too

The Green Lane Association's code asks drivers to keep to a maximum of 20 mph, travel in small groups, stop the engine for horses, obey closure signs and avoid routes in wet weather where the surface would not recover. Lanes stay open when users look after them.

Quick answers

Kit for this job

• No.01 Pre Rinse and Bug Remover
• No.02 Snow Foam
• Long Handle Wheel Arch Brush
• Wheel Kit
• Snow Foam Cannon 1L
• Wheel and Dirty Jobs Cloths 3 Pack

Where the figures come from

• Byways and road legal vehicles: Hampshire County Council, vehicles on rights of way.
• Seasonal closures: Central Bedfordshire Council, byways open to all traffic.
• Mud on roads: Cumberland Council, mud on roads.
• Code of conduct: Green Lane Association, code of conduct.

More from the Journal

• Winter car care in the UK: how to deal with road salt
• Road salt and your car: the facts and figures
• Snow foam explained: how to use a foam cannon properly
• How to clean alloy wheels without scratching them